Besidilo

I don't think I have this issue in my current setup, so I'd think this fix is only needed in special cases.

Woah! That's new!

SkyRealism Cinematic CoT 2.1 (3.0 is cooking to be the best revision so far, fully compatible with RLO and ELFX) RLO 4.0 Might test ELFX with the above soon.

Lagom is excellent for checking your calibration results, but nothing beats hardware calibration. I have a Spyder 3 Pro and Pantone Huey Pro over here, worthwhile investments in the long run, considering how many monitors I have calibrated with them. Not to mention that you need to calibrate the monitor every 4-6 weeks to retain the image suitable for photo editing, etc. And yes, I agree that the default settings on most monitors (especially TN panels) are horrible and people simply don't realise how inaccurate the colours are. With contrast and brightness pushed all the way up, it's no wonder how we get so many awful ENB configs that are nothing short of oversaturated blurry POS. Don't forget that you're still limited by the hardware and even the best colour calibrators in the world won't be able to squeeze out more than your monitor is capable of displaying. Either way, I still heartily recommend investing in one, be it a used Spyder 2/3 from ebay. If you give me your monitors' models, I can have a look around for the most accurate general settings for your monitor. Without knowing the batch/revision number, it might be a little on the hard side, though, but a good starting point nonetheless.

I prefer the modular way.

Has anyone contacted the authors about the possible issues? Or are these all "dead mods"?

I have long verified that this is true. The trick is knowing how to spot changes to INI structure and what they mean. Sometimes, very strange things can happen, but you just need to know what of the current INI settings are causing the issue and reset those values. It is just a matter of a lot of trial and error.So you're saying that adding the updated DLL also adds any missing parameters to the enbseries.ini file? That's how I'm reading this and this doesn't seem likely as it would need permission from Windows to modify a file that is in it's installation directory. From my 8 hours of testing a few weeks ago, I can confirm that popping in a newer DLL doesn't add new parameters to the enbseries.ini file on my system. The new parameters are present in the DLL file, but would not be in the enbseries.ini file unless they are added manually. In many cases, Boris's updates only include tweaked parameter settings and not new parameters. The result of adding in the v0.139 DLL into the older SkyRealism version that used v0.119 was a fish bowl effect with the lens in interiors because the new parameters for interiors were not present in the enbseries.ini file.That's right, at least according to MTichenor. Haven't tested it myself, mind you.

OK, so I can enable SSAO in the Nvidia CP but not in Nvidia Inspector??? Interesting.So what I'll be trying at least, is: Skyrealism with 1.44 if possible, 1.39 or even 1.19 if the other's don't work well. Enable SSAO through ENB (if Nvidia CP doesn't support, dunno whether it's better to enable it through the CP if it does support, though o_O), use SMAA, RLO and get COT working. The latter only conflicts with Immersive Skyrim thunder doesn't it? If that doesn't bring me down to 40 FPS I'll be happy :D Mind you, besidilo, since I have great respect for your knowledge about hardware: I currently use my "old" GTX 570 (see signature) along with my brandspanking new GTX 680. Does it make sense to set the 570 to PhysX only, or should I leave it to the driver to decide what to do with the 570? I can set PhysX to select automatically between the gpus or choose that the 570 takes PhysX alone and I can restrict the 570 to do PhysX only... Like JJ explained, Nvidia Inspector modifies driver's profiles, so you're good to go setting them up either way. I use the Inspector myself since it allows me for a greater control over my games. MTichenor says that you should be allow to run SkyRealism with 146 ENB just fine, so it's worth a try. According to him, once you put the latest ENB DLL in, the config should get updated with relevant INI lines if needed, so no changes necessary. Whether it will look as good is another matter, but it's up to you to test it (or ask for feedback from other users on the mod's page). There's a patch for Lightning during Thunderstorms but not one for Immersive Skyrim Thunder AFAIK. You can also use ELFX with RLO and CoT, if you want. Details in RLO's articles. With regards to SSAO, it's simple enough for me. If you want to improve performance and retain Reflections effect that comes with the latest ENBs, use ENB 146, ENB's SSAO and all additional effects. There are many configs that implement it brilliantly, check out UnrealWarfare's one for example. In this case, you will have to use SMAA, as it's the best post-processing AA method. You'll find a modified version with Matso's ENB files. Otherwise, set a Skyrim profile in Nvidia Inspector with 4xSGSSAA, throw in HQ Anisotropic Filtering, set Ambient Occlusion to High Quality and disable SSAO, AF, Edge AA, Reflections (I think this gets disabled automatically), and enjoy the best quality you can currently get at a reasonable performance cost. Whichever option you choose, don't forget to disable AA, FXAA and AF in game, as those are just bad. You should sell the GTX570, because PhysX is just a marketing gimmick shoved down our throats. You're wasting energy on running it as a secondary card. That's my opinion anyway. If you decide to keep it for whatever reason, though, you should set it up to deal with PhysX on its own. Again, waste of resources in any case. Better off running Folding@Home on a secondary rig. EDIT: as for iBlurDeferredShadowMask, I recommend leaving this value on default setting, which is 3 with the Ultra preset.

NAND memory has limited amount of writes over its lifetime, but it's designed in a way that even after you use up its memory, you will still be able to read from it (no data loss). In the end, the entire process takes years (10+ with the current SSDs), so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I doubt your mods will attribute to excessive writes to the SSD and all electronics degrade over time anyway. Performance degradation is a side effect, but TRIM should care of that. If you have so much money to spend on an SSD (which I advise against, it's wiser to just control your storage and get another SSD at a later date = more performance/capacity for less money as the NAND prices drop every year), you might want to look at the Intel's range of SSDs. They're fast and reliable, and might make a worthwhile investment over time. I'd definitely advise looking into getting a new motherboard or SATA controller in the future, as you won't be able to enjoy more than a half of your SSD's potential. Plus a proper controller will allow you to RAID SSDs and double their effective performance. I think the new Intel SSDs even enable TRIM in RAID setups.

SGSSAA would be best if you don't use an ENB. It still works with ENB, but Reflections and SSAO gets disabled this way. So if you don't mind not having reflections and you use hardware ambient occlusion, you can grab the latest ENB, enable SSAO in Control Panel and set SGSSAA to 4x. Mind you, the performance impact will be very noticeable if you do it the right way. SMAA is the superior way of post-processing AA and that's the one that should be recommended for most users. It's even better than the game's MSAA due to anti-aliasing of transparent textures.

GameSave manager would no longer be needed to do that. You can create a Steam Library on each HDD/SSD through Steam now. So when installed Skyrim, merely choose to create a D:/Steam/ folder (or whatever the drive is) and it will automatically be installed to that drive and you can still launch it from Steam. I prefer the GameSave Manager solution since that allows me to quickly move it back to the original drive and that's a full back up of my Steam folder. But I guess either solution works.

Tis the top dog, as far as I'm concerned. If it wasn't for the price, I'd grab one myself. Potential data loss - I'd like to point out that Samsung used to make industrial grade SSDs exclusively. Their failure rate is crazy low, even lower than Crucial's controllers. The chance of an SSD failing is probably a fraction of that of an HDD's. The reliability concerns have vanished with early OCZ Vertex revisions. Even the cheap brands use quality NAND controllers these days and albeit some are still more reliable than others, the great concerns are non-existent. Garbage collection - TRIM issues, have been resolved years ago on the Intel controller. But they're still present on Marvell SATA 3 controllers. In that case, I would opt out of using the SATA 3 controller and just go with SATA 2. But then again, you won't be able to enjoy the full benefit of your SSD with that solution, therefore it would be advisable to get a cheaper SSD for now, because the prices of NAND keep falling and if you're not upgrading any time soon, it will be a waste of money. Look into the Crucial M4 and Samsung 830, they're great SSDs for less than $200. About the only thing you have to do is enable AHCI in BIOS, as far as I know. Unless you use some ancient OS, like XP, then you will have to do a lot of tweaks manually. Windows 7/8 natively support SSDs and all the tweaks out there are unnecessary. I have my OS and dozens of applications installed on my main SSD, and they only take up around 30 GB of space, so the rest can be filled with games. Just remember to avoid excessive writes to the SSD, I don't recommend moving pagefile from the main drive, but you could always shrink it to a couple of GBs (if you have sufficient RAM for your needs) and make sure that none of the programs cache excessive amounts of data on the main drive (e.g. torrents or other downloads). I normally move my Downloads folder and Libraries to another drive, shrink the pagefile (required amount will vary depending on your use and RAM amount, but don't disable it completely) and system restore to save up a bit of space (never use it anyway), disable hibernation if not used (mind you, it's required to have it enabled for Hybrid Boot in Win 8). Another thing you might want to look into is having Steam installed on your HDD and just using GameSave Manager's Steam Spreader to move the games you want to your SSD. That's what I do and it works wonderfully. EDIT: make sure to have everything that you use a lot installed on the SSD. It really improves the overall performance and you'll be reluctant to use an OS running on an HDD again. Oh, and install the latest Intel RST drivers if you use the Intel controller. They improve performance immensely.

There's no texture folder in the mod's file. You mean to delete this files in the meshes folder? It's a small mistake Neo made probably in rush. NIF files are meshes, and you will find the files in the following directories: Data/meshes/clutter/food/apple01.nif Data/meshes/clutter/food/bread01a.nif Data/meshes/clutter/wine/winebottle01a.nif

What budget? I'd go with something around $200, like the Crucial M4 256GB: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148449&nm_mc=OTC-FroogleNEW&cm_mmc=OTC-FroogleNEW-_-Solid+State+Disk-_-Crucial-_-20148449 Or if you can find a Samsung 830 256GB for $10 more, get one, because it's overall a faster and even more reliable SSD. Bear in mind that 840 is not a direct replacement for the 830 and is actually a slower drive.

But this statement is fundamentally false and you're preaching it like if I was the one spreading BS about the 7970 being the fastest card on the market. It's a matter of fact that the 7970 with updated BIOS (1GHz Edition, if you will) and 12.10 Catalyst drivers onwards (or was it 12.9?), performs overall better than any other single GPU card out there, period. Nobody who has any idea about this market would argue otherwise. I'm not even going to bring up the benchmarks since you're ignorant enough to post Passmark for GPU comparison and tell me that it's just one of the benchmarks that proves the GTX670 to be the better card. Lack of words, really. Seriously, just ask anyone with a bit of knowledge on this forum or elsewhere, if you don't trust my judgement. Or look up some graphics card reviews from Anand, Techpowerup, HardOCP, Vortez, Tom's Hardware, Guru3D, etc. That it's a tremendous value for money card compared to the vastly overpriced GTX670 4GB is just a bonus.

It would take him a few minutes to prove to himself that he was wrong about installing the ENB correctly . Instead he made up an excuse about being busy with something else. Seems legit, yup.

That much RAM is necessary for some 64-bit processes that will use up every bit of RAM available that it needs. This may not be efficient memory handling, but there are unfortunately programs out there that do this. Data-crunching apps like SPSS will use 16 GB RAM to sort 300 million records containing a hundred or so fields (and you will also not be able to use your box in the process :P ) ... but I would never do this on my personal computer, which for me is a pure home built (about my 12th build over nearly 1.5x as many years. I am no hardware expert, but I know pretty much how to recognize the best info when I need it ... see specs below ... I want a SSD and a 7970, and I am good to go for a few more years). All that said, I would never build anything but last one or two season's top build. I don't think thalastwon mentioned anything about data crunching...

Wow, I thought you were one of the few who had any idea about hardware around here, appears not. Linking to a Passmark as a supposedly viable benchmark? Please... There's also so much wrong with your assumption that the extra 1GB VRAM is all that matters... In which case you missed the point anyway, because TLW got a GTX670 4GB which costs substantially more money and has the extra 1GB VRAM advantage over the 7970 3GB. I'll refrain from posting about hardware here from now on, because it seems like some people just post things that they're convinced about being right, without prior elementary knowledge of computers and it all ends in a pointless discussion, wasting my and your time. No offence to anyone, but I just get mad for no reason and if the STEP team feels like they know better, so be it.

For some reason the newly added 1440x900 resolution appears at the bottom. Not sure how that can be fixed so I'll leave that to you. I was also going to suggest adding the >2560x1600 option up. Also, I'd definitely get rid of the uncommon resolutions which 99% of people out there won't be using. There are too many variations to even list and some resolutions don't even exist as native screen resolutions. I'd say a standard list would have: 1024x768 (4:3) 1280x720 (16:9) 1280x1024 (5:4) 1366x768 (16:9) 1440x900 (16:10) 1600x900 (16:9) 1680x1050 (16:10) 1600x1200 (4:3) 1920x1080 (16:9) 1920x1200 (16:10) 2560x1440 (16:9) 2560x1600 (16:10) Eyefinity/NV Surround (varies) Anything else is REALLY uncommon. Unless I missed something obvious.

2560x1440 and 2560x1600 too. They're more common than you think!

Nothing stops him from getting both by saving some money on other components, but I can see your point. Oh, and btw: https://www.extremetech.com/computing/133121-maximized-performance-comparing-the-effects-of-hyper-threading-software-updates https://semiaccurate.com/2012/04/25/does-disabling-hyper-threading-increase-performance/

Anything that is CUDA optimised and supports more than 8 threads would benefit from your choices. Running a few instances at the same time counts too. I struggle to see how having that much RAM will help, but the added benefit for running VMs might be of great significance for SOME. Other than that, I can't say your uses are exactly hardcore.

I just didn't think you thought it out all that well, that's it. Claiming that I'm an extremist, when I'm more of a purist, and my views are based on methodical and measurable evidence that has been gathered by folks for a couple of decades now. There are a few key rules you stick to, and the base will vary depending on the use I don't need to see your credentials to tell if you know your **** or not, though. I've been around in this game for years, and whilst I am not always right and my advice may be flawed by the lack of knowledge in certain areas, you can still instantly tell if somebody knows what consists of a good gaming PC and what doesn't. I would never go to a local computer store to ask that question. Your company website is nicely designed by the way. With regards to HT, it's mostly not needed anyway. Many game still assign secondary threads to tasks that don't require much processing power, leaving the main load

That's all good mate, trust me on this one though, the almost instant access times on and SSD are just a great experience for most users and are noticeable to pretty much anyone who spends a few hours a day with their PCs. Brand loyalty is not the best way to conduct your business in the technology industry as it's fast evolving and affected by a lot of factors. NVIDIA cards are by no means bad, but they systematically lost their battle towards the end of last year, and it's mostly hardcore fans that get their graphics cards these days. For most users, AMD Radeons from the top shelf are a better value for money, and considering that you might be switching cards every 1-2 years, it's really worth going with what's best for your money now, not wondering what's gonna happen in a year or two. Fair enough, it's your money and PC after all, I do hope you enjoy it for as long as possible. :)