My Gaming Rig

[TechAngel85]

UPDATE:

So I've had to make some changes to my rig, some upgrades some downgrades, to be able to stay within my budget. I'm thinking that I can get this system for around $1000 (US) buy the time I add in deals and shop around for the components at lower prices (which NCIX seems to have a few better prices than Newegg atm). I've updated the OP with this information; however, I've also provided the changes below for convenience sake. Any thoughts on the changes?

 

 

 

Computer Case: NZXT Source 530 CA-SO530-M1 NZXT Source 210 S210-001

 

The original case that I wanted was the Corsair Obsidian Series 650D. However, with this build I have to cut some costs here and there to keep the overall build within my price range. The case was the first thing I cut; however, I still wanted certain features. The NZXT Source 530 was my second choice provided me with most of the features I wanted will still being a really good case: excellent air flow, bottom mounted PSU, modular drive bays, fan filters, USB 3.0 front ports and designed for cable management.

 

Downgraded:

All-in-all, I cut the cost of the case yet again to try to lower by budget while still keeping my amazing rig that is going to power me into the future.

 

 

 

Motherboard: ASUS Z87-A ASUS Z87-PRO

I had a difficult time deciding on my motherboard. I wanted something that would last through several upgrades and have all the features I desired. In the end it was between the Gigabyte GA-Z87MX-D3H and the Asus Z87-A. The Asus board won out by a narrow margin. All-in-all the two boards are very similar; however, Asus's software features (and seeing them work) did it in for me. The look of the board was also as a factor for me since my case is windowed and I didn't want to go with the typical blue or red theme.

 

Upgraded:

I was able to cut cost enough to upgrade my board to a better version of the same series. The ASUS Z87-PRO has all the great features of the Z87-A and more. Extra USB, intergrated WiFi, upgraded audio chip, upgraded LAN chip, better cooling and some more technicial stuff.

 

 

 

Graphics Card: EVGA SuperClocked GeForce GTX 760 2GB EVGA GeForce GTX 760 4GB

I went with nVidia because I'm just a fan and have had better experience with them over AMD/ATi. The choice of GTX 760 was a budget decision again. I would like the GTX 770 and if I can figure out a way to save $100 on the build then I might put that toward the 770 over the 760.

 

Upgraded:

Same card, more VRAM! I'll probably still be upgrading to the 770 with 4GB of VRAM.

 

 

 

Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance Pro (DDR3/1600/8GB) Crucial Ballistix Tactical 4GB

The memory I have chosen is for dual channel running the highest stock speed with the lowest CAS. For this I've chosen the Corsair Vengeance Pro serious dual channel kit with timings of 9-9-9-24. I know there are some RAM sticks out there that have 8-8-8-24 timings; however, I ultimately chose this kit due to it being $10 less and because it matches the black/gold theme of the motherboard.

 

Downgraded:

Not so much as downgraded as I've chosen a different brand/series and only 4GB to get me started. This was because the ones above are discontinued, and the downgrade to 4GB was one of the things I did to knock $40 (US) off the build. I'll be adding more of these Crucials latter to fill up my slots. These sticks are DDR3 1600 with 8-8-8-24 timings; however, reviews have shown they run best when overclocked to 2133 (nearly 50% gain) which I'm planning on doing.

 

 

 

Power Supply: Thermaltake SMART Series 550W Cooler Master i600

Originally, I had chosen the OCZ ZT Series 650W; however, budget kicked in again. I don't need anything more than a 550W and the fully modular PSUs are priced higher. Therefore, I made a sacifice and chose this Thermaltake PSU instead, which is partially modular and provides enough power to handle this rig.

 

Upgraded:

I switched up brands here as well and have gone with Cooler Master and upgraded from 550W to 600W in the process. This is in part due to the plan to upgrade to the GTX 770 which needs a bit for power.

 

 

 

As for the processor, the i5 is going to be plenty for gaming. I've done a lot of research and read a lot of reviews. When overclocked to 4.4GHz, which is the average overclock for this processor, the i5 dishes out the same performance as the i7-4770K at stock speeds in gaming for $100 less. The i7 obviously pulls ahead in applications that utilize the extra cores and HT which it offers; however, for my purposes I'm confident in my choice of the i5. I'll be purchasing a water cooler for this i5 in the future so that I can unleash the beast without throttling issues.

[Octopuss]

I would recommend not getting Haswell stuff. For one, it's the current generation hi-end, and thus a bit more expensive. Second, it has different socket than Ivy Bridge, and previous CPUs are not compatible with it, which leads me to: third, Haswell overclocks worse than Ivy Bridge. It's just hotter.

If you plan to overclock, I would rather get cheaper and well tested (by time thus far) Z77 board with nice i7 3770K CPU for much more reasonable price. I would probably stick with Asus board, because Gigabyte has been having this disgusting habit of barely supporting boards six months past their introduction (I've been waiting for non-beta BIOS for my board since october 2012).

 

Very important warning regarding memory:

DO NOT BUY INDIVIDUAL MODULES! Always but dual channel package, only then it's guaranteed to work without any problems. If you intend to overclock, going the route you chose would only bring you headaches with just a homeopatic amount of bad luck. Seriously, don't even think about it.

Just choose good 2x4GB kit and be done with it. You can overclock 1600MHz to 1866 easily, and that's all you need. Going higher doesn't bring much if any additional performance at all.

Also, be warned that the more modules you have the more difficult it is to keep system stable when overclocked.

[TechAngel85]

I would recommend not getting Haswell stuff. For one, it's the current generation hi-end, and thus a bit more expensive. Second, it has different socket than Ivy Bridge, and previous CPUs are not compatible with it, which leads me to: third, Haswell overclocks worse than Ivy Bridge. It's just hotter.

If you plan to overclock, I would rather get cheaper and well tested (by time thus far) Z77 board with nice i7 3770K CPU for much more reasonable price. I would probably stick with Asus board, because Gigabyte has been having this disgusting habit of barely supporting boards six months past their introduction (I've been waiting for non-beta BIOS for my board since october 2012).

Thanks for the input. I covered this several posts back; however, I'll do it again briefly. Yes, Haswell doesn't overclock as high as previous generations; however, they overclock better and are still on par. First, at stock speeds Haswell wins out nearly every time (check my previous post for the Tom's Hardware review). Which brings me to my second point on this...even though they don't overclock as high, a Haswell running at 4.4GHz is the same as a previous generation running at 4.6GHz (previous post).

 

Secondly, there is only a $10 difference between Ivy Bridge and Haswell right now and though some 1155 socket boards are indeed less expensive (I put together a build for the 1155 and Z77 socket and boards) it's not by enough to make up for the benefits of the 1150 and Z87 combo.

 

Lastly, Haswell overclocks better. What do I mean, you ask? I mean that in previous generations you had to disable a bunch of feature that came with the CPUs to be able to maintain a high/stable overclock, in most cases. With Haswell, you simply change the numbers and you're good to go! No need to disable any of the chip's features to maintain stable overclocks.

 

These things, in my book, are worth choosing Haswell. As for the bit of extra heat, as long as you have a good cooling solution like what I'm planning in the future when I do overclock ( https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032 ) then it's a non-issue.

 

I happen to agree with you on the ASUS board though. I've spent hours researching many many (too many) boards and I can't seem to pull away from the ASUS.

 

I know I'm buying some of the newest stuff out on the market; however, I'm planning on this build to last for 4-6yrs with only upgrading a part here and there if need be (like more RAM).

 

As long as you buy the same memory module down the line you won't have any issue with the RAM. A lot of people warn just like you did; however, I've been doing what I'm doing now for years without any issues what-so-ever. You just have to know what you're doing and get the same modules. The only time it becomes a real issue is when those modules are discontinued or become hard to find.

[Octopuss]

Ah ok, I see you're decided already :) If the price difference is that low, I guess it's good enough reason alone.

I would probably choose Haswell-based board myself because FINALLY there is no goddamn useless PCI slot, allowing for some more freedom with cards placement.

 

I do have some experience with IB overclocking though (I even delidded my CPU), and you really did not have to disable anything. I spent weeks tweaking it, and my brain was melting, but in the end it worked pretty well. But that's entirely different discussion :D

 

The thing with memory is that when you buy dual channel kit, you have a guarantee they were tested in the factory to be absolutely 101% compatible. It's the same deal as with CPUs: the same stepping, maybe even same batch, and yet two pieces overclock with night and day difference. Fortunately, it's nowhere near as important with memory. Personally, I would not do it, but if it's working out for you, why not!

[Aiyen]

When getting kits then the modules come from the same wafer, and hence are identical in almost all respects. When buying separate then their specs might be the same but you can experience one stop working before the other and other weird stuff, due to manufacturing issues.

 

However as long as they are from a quality brand then it should not matter, since those only use the highest quality parts of a given wafer are used anyways... but Quality control can fail. What you get with kits are just much better quality control and nothing more. That said..then I would also never buy separate modules... Have had it happen more then once that only 1 stick works at a time.. for god knows what reason, even though the brand and specs where the same. Also had it happen that they just down clock and refuse to go back up unless one is removed.

It is like the reason to buy EVGA is the much better sleep you get knowing that you can just throw the stuff back if it fails due to bad quality control. With issues like I just said.. the manufacturer is not obligated in any way since the individual stick is working.

[TechAngel85]

(snip)

 

I do have some experience with IB overclocking though (I even delidded my CPU), and you really did not have to disable anything. I spent weeks tweaking it, and my brain was melting, but in the end it worked pretty well. But that's entirely different discussion :D

 

The thing with memory is that when you buy dual channel kit, you have a guarantee they were tested in the factory to be absolutely 101% compatible. It's the same deal as with CPUs: the same stepping, maybe even same batch, and yet two pieces overclock with night and day difference. Fortunately, it's nowhere near as important with memory. Personally, I would not do it, but if it's working out for you, why not!

 

I've seen videos and read reviews of people "delidding" their IBs. I think you can do the same with the Haswells; however, I don't think I would be so brave to do it with a brand new processor.

 

I get that on the memory, tho. I guess I've been lucky enough to never have those issues. The first time I do I'll be swearing! lol. :happy: As for the overclocking, I'm mainly going by this article ( https://www.overclockers.com/crucial-ballistix-tactical-lp-16-gb-ddr3-1600-review ). I know their not the same modules and mileage will vary, but they're the same series which look very promising.

[Octopuss]

I don't think this would cause you any problems whatsoever until you get into such overclocking state where one bump in timings or 10MHz difference messes everything up, so in a way, you are probably right.

On the other hand, kits usually don't cost much more than two separate modules, so... :D

 

Delidding is awesome. It dropped my temperatures by 20°C. And you know what? The temperature drop alone finally brought me stability on the same overclock!

I am clumsy as hell, and I had the basic process done in 3 minutes :) Well worth it!

 

Now I don't have first hand experience with Haswell, but I read from different sources it runs hotter than IB, which is the reason why overclocking is a bit more difficult. There are also some really serious architectural differences though, I think something with different transistors or something?, which adds to it. But I really don't understand these things one bit, I am borderline user/enthusiast :P

[Nearox]

Agreeing with some that has been said above: Buying a single 4gb ram stick might not only get you compatiblity issues, but also large performance drops and even memory issues with Skyrim/ENBoost. 

 

If you're going for a 4GB VRAM card you will definitely want to go for 8GB ram, and preferrably 2x 4GB. Apart from SKyrim, quite a few new games today still use Directx9 - which as I'm sure you know directly mirrors VRAM usage into RAM. If you only got 4Gb RAM, you're going to reach the limit very soon with STEP/SRLE + the drain from the system itself, after which windows will resort to virtual memory...

 

The updated system is overall going to be very nice I'm sure, but are you sure you don't want to spend that extra 40 bucks to get a proper amount of RAM on a system like that? Don't go for anything faster than 1600, the increase in performance is largely negligible when it comes to gaming. Overclocking memory tends to bring minimal (think 1-2fps) performance increase for relatively high risk imo. Moreover, dual channel memory mode makes your system feel much more response. At least that is my experience. For me personally the slight stutter with single channel is very annoying from a quality-of-life perspective. 

[TechAngel85]

Okay...you all have convinced me to go with the dual channel kit. I'm currently sitting at $1,066.90 (US). That price tag is without a monitor because the market/prices change so quickly on those, I'm just going to wait to price them out and select one when I'm actually ready to buy. I think in the time I've put together my Wish List I've gone through at least 6 monitors in the setup.

[phazer11]

I would recommend not getting Haswell stuff. For one, it's the current generation hi-end, and thus a bit more expensive. Second, it has different socket than Ivy Bridge, and previous CPUs are not compatible with it, which leads me to: third, Haswell overclocks worse than Ivy Bridge. It's just hotter.

If you plan to overclock, I would rather get cheaper and well tested (by time thus far) Z77 board with nice i7 3770K CPU for much more reasonable price. I would probably stick with Asus board, because Gigabyte has been having this disgusting habit of barely supporting boards six months past their introduction (I've been waiting for non-beta BIOS for my board since october 2012).

Thanks for the input. I covered this several posts back; however, I'll do it again briefly. Yes, Haswell doesn't overclock as high as previous generations; however, they overclock better and are still on par. First, at stock speeds Haswell wins out nearly every time (check my previous post for the Tom's Hardware review). Which brings me to my second point on this...even though they don't overclock as high, a Haswell running at 4.4GHz is the same as a previous generation running at 4.6GHz (previous post).

 

Secondly, there is only a $10 difference between Ivy Bridge and Haswell right now and though some 1155 socket boards are indeed less expensive (I put together a build for the 1155 and Z77 socket and boards) it's not by enough to make up for the benefits of the 1150 and Z87 combo.

 

Lastly, Haswell overclocks better. What do I mean, you ask? I mean that in previous generations you had to disable a bunch of feature that came with the CPUs to be able to maintain a high/stable overclock, in most cases. With Haswell, you simply change the numbers and you're good to go! No need to disable any of the chip's features to maintain stable overclocks.

 

These things, in my book, are worth choosing Haswell. As for the bit of extra heat, as long as you have a good cooling solution like what I'm planning in the future when I do overclock ( https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032 ) then it's a non-issue.

 

Um WTF are you talking about man. I never had to disable ANY setting to get my 2500k to 5 GHz.

[TechAngel85]

2500K isn't an Ivy Bridge, now is it. Lol! Do some research on overclocking IBs. Sandy Bridge processors were the overclocker's dream core for Intel. They overclocked really high, really easily.

 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk.

[Octopuss]

SB overclocked so well mostly because the IHS is soldered to the die. No stupid empty gap between them, resulting in superb thermal conductivity. And it's overclockable higher in general (apparently because of some other architectural difference).

Delidding IB is sort of required if you want to hit any reasonable frequenty, and your CPU isn't a vcore prodigy. I was pretty lucky, because mine overclocks to 4.4GHz with just a tiny bump, but other people were not, and have to use absurd amounts of voltage. I could have gotten it higher, maybe 4.6, but my approach is not every bit of performance at any cost.

 

Pro tip: delid, apply Collboratory Liquid Ultra on the die (being a liquid metal it doesn't ever dry out), get IHS back on, and use some decent classic paste under the heatsink (I switched to Noctua NT-H1).

[Ubeogesh]

My haswell 4770k is @ 4.5 GHz with 1.4v (i use adaptive voltage in mainboard, so it's ~1.0v when not under load) and it was delided and liquid metal applied on the die (it decreased load temps by 30 degrees at stock clocks under prime95!)

[TechAngel85]

:If you can clock a Haswell stable at 4.6 with 1.25v then you have a chip that's in the top 50% of chips and it's just luck of the draw on which you get.

 

By the looks of it, Ubeogesh, you got a below average chip. Having to turn up your voltage that high just to get to 4.5 isn't very good. Most reviews I've seen people aren't willing to stay above 1.3v.

 

That's the great thing about Haswell (not sure if previous gens had this) is that they clock down when not under load and clock back up when needed. It's a power saving feature of Haswell. So the chip might run at stock when you're browsing the net but when you're gaming or rendering the chip clocks up to 4.4.

 

Regardless how high mine can clock, my goal is 4.4 and no higher.

 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk.

[Octopuss]

Those CPU saving states were here ages ago already :) It's great feature. And the best part is it works when overclocking, if done properly. My CPU runs at 4.4GHz, but downlocks to like 1400 or something.

 

I agree with 4.4. It's reasonable maximum speed past which it's pointless effort and you only increase the heat without any reasonable performance gains at all.